Ace of Hearts
ACE Bakery found success not only because it produces
authentic artisan breads and rolls the traditional way, but also because its
management team got involved in the business for the love of it.

By Dan Malovany
To make a great loaf of bread, it takes a lot of skill, a
little luck, a wealth of patience and a ton of something else.
“The bottom line is that it’s all about passion and passion
about bread,” says Philip Shaw, president and CEO of ACE Bakery.
That passion for creating artisan breads also attracted
Jonathan Roiter to join the Toronto-based company in 2007, first as its chief
financial officer and now as its chief operating officer. Roiter, who had
worked at McKinsey & Co. advising emerging and multinational companies on
how to manage their growth, saw that the people in this business had a lot of
heart.
“Why I got so excited and jumped at the opportunity here
touches on this passion,” he says. “It’s a passion toward the consumer and
being customer-centric that you rarely see.”
For Shaw, ACE Bakery provides the opportunity to take a
successful regional bakery that’s been named one of Toronto’s best by the local
media and spearhead its transition into a fast-growing player in the broader
market throughout Canada and the United States.
His model for managing that growth is none other than La
Brea Bakery, North America’s largest artisan bread company where he joined in
1988 and rose up the ranks to become chief operating officer and CEO until he
left in 2003.
“I believe our success stems from a very simple formula that
I refer to as the ‘P’ principal: people, processes, products and passion equal
profits,” Shaw says, who joined ACE Bakery in 2006. “If you are not true to the
belief that the input and value that’s greatest in order of priority is the
investment in people, you are overlooking the single biggest point of
differentiation you have from your competition - the unique contribution of
your employees.”
Founded in 1993 by Linda Haynes and Martin Connell, ACE
Bakery began as a café on Toronto’s King Street baking its signature baguettes
as well as handmade European-style rustic breads using proven formulas and
processes such as traditional starters, all-natural ingredients and long
fermentation times and finishing them all off in a stone-hearth oven.
Now owned by Glencoe Partners, a private investment firm
based in Chicago, the company has seen net sales rise at a compound annual rate
of 30% between 1997 and 2007 and today has revenue upward of $50 million
annually.
Overall, ACE Bakery produces more than 100 varieties of Old
World breads and rolls in a plant situated in 50,000 sq. ft. of production
space. These products range from the company’s top-selling baguettes, organic
sliced breads and classic products such as Country Wheat and ciabatta to more
neo-traditional varieties such as Cheddar Cheese Twists, Potato Chive Focaccia
and the new Olive Fougasse made with whole black olives, sea salt and dried
thyme.
Locally, 12 route trucks deliver products fresh to
supermarket in-store bakeries and some of Ontario’s top restaurants, hotels,
caterers and gourmet food shops. Fueling its double-digit growth is an
increasing amount of sales of frozen parbaked products to supermarket in-store
bakeries to be baked on site. ACE Bakery also supplies some of the continent’s
largest foodservice chains to provide an artisan flair to traditional fare.
“People are looking to upscale their sandwiches and their
burgers, and with burgers, you can only add so much to them,” says John Nailor,
national sales manager for Canada. “They’ve done it all with condiments so the
bun is the last territory they haven’t touched. They’re willing to spend a few
extra pennies to get a better product.”
With its new product lines, ACE Bakery is taking its artisan
heritage and leveraging it against other categories and to other areas of the
store. In the freezer case, it sells Bake Your Own packaged Demi-Baguettes and
Petits Pains. In the deli, the company offers Artisan Crisps or round toasted
slices of its classic baguettes in such flavors as Cranberry & Raisin,
Potato Chive, Roasted Garlic and Rosemary & Sea Salt.
For snacking, ACE Bakery came out with addictive Artisan
Granola filled with fruit and nuts. The company also sells multigrain and
whole-wheat products that cater to ongoing consumer trends.
To fuel sales, Shaw says, the company continually focuses on
being flexible to meet its customers’ ever-changing needs.
“We still have
high-end restaurants and hotel customers in Toronto for whom we develop unique
small batch products. This allows our product development team to be focused on
both the boutique as well as the commercial,” he says. “In the same week, we
could be working on an opportunity for a large, U.S. supermarket chain where
the volume is in tractor trailer loads while simultaneously working on product
for a single Toronto restaurant. The R&D process is the same for both of
them.”
Power in Diversity
Shaw has put together a management team comprised of
long-time employees along with seasoned professionals like himself who have
experience working in both small and large companies. As a result, he says, ACE
Bakery is run by a group of veterans, in more ways than one, whose “eclectic
backgrounds” bring multiple disciplines to the table.
For instance, Marcus Mariathas, director of research and
development, and Michelle Heywood, customer service and quality control
manager, have been with the company for more than a decade since it baked bread
in a single deck oven on King Street and sold its products to less than a hundred
regional accounts. Philippe Gaudet, marketing manager, is another veteran,
having joined the bakery right out of college five years ago.
During the last two years, ACE Bakery brought in managers
like Roiter and Fiona Mitchell, vice president of human resources, who has 25
years of experience in organizational transformation working with smaller,
owner-managed businesses in all facets of manufacturing. She has provided
structure to the organization to handle everyday issues such as hiring
employees, orientation, absenteeism and safety programs. To improve
communication and the exchange of information, she’s even used professional
programs such as the Myers-Briggs Type Indicator, which is a psychometric
questionnaire designed to help managers understand and respect one another.
At the same time, Mitchell wants to maintain the small
company culture that has made ACE Bakery so successful.
“Management at every level has a lot of contact with
employees throughout the operations,” she says. “Our essential message is that
we respect our employees, we appreciate and value their skills and hard work
and we listen to them. We want to see flour on the office carpet because that
shows that there are no barriers between the bakery and the office.”
Mitchell says that employee teams are a new and important
part of the evolving culture.
“Whether it is reviewing wage structures or improving safety
or housekeeping, our employees have made real contributions to business
solutions,” she says.
Then there are those people like Shaw, Nailor, Brian Sisson,
director of operations, and Kevin Saunders, vice president of U.S. sales, who
have extensive experience working for large baking companies.
It’s all about building a foundation and investing in the
future, Shaw says.
“To grow at the speed at which we’re expanding and to meet
the needs of the diverse customer base we’re growing year over year, you have
to be incredibly focused on maintaining product quality by investing in
employees, monitoring equipment and processes and evaluating our expansion
needs,” he explains.
Investing in Expansion
To turbocharge sales, Nailor says, the key has been to focus
on its burgeoning frozen parbaked lines.
“We try to switch more people from fresh to our frozen
business because they’re getting a better product to the consumer,” he
explains. “Fresh, from a logistical standpoint, accommodates a lot of customers
with freezer space. Ultimately, if you can get them something that is flash
frozen and baked at the store, the consumer is technically getting a better
product.”
Think about it, Gaudet adds, from an oven-to-table
perspective. Fresh product gets delivered by 6 a.m. and often doesn’t reach the
consumers’ table until dinnertime. On the other hand, frozen products can be
baked 30 minutes before it’s purchased and served at home 90 minutes later.
“It’s a far better product,” he says. “I’ve seen retailers
embrace it when they can bake it off. It’s been a powerful strategy that has
allowed us to grow.”
In some cases, ACE Bakery allows retailers to play both
cards by serving a combination of fresh and frozen items. They can use
fresh-delivered products in their displays, or they can make sandwiches in the
deli and use its parbaked products to create a warm, fresh-baked aroma around
the in-store bakery. In many ways, the programs play off each other, Nailor
says.
Locally, fresh products must be ordered by 2 p.m. for the
next day delivery, although many accounts have standing orders, Heywood adds.
ACE Bakery makes three deliveries a day, the bulk of which is for breakfast or
the start of the day between 3 a.m. and 9 a.m. There are also lunch and dinner
routes, mainly for high-end foodservice establishments. For most products,
shelf life is one day for fresh product, two days for some sliced sandwich
breads and up to 150 days when frozen.
“What differentiates us is the commitment of the level of
service we provide to our customers,” Heywood says. “It’s basically 24/7. There
is always someone available to deal with our customers.”
Once in a while, she adds, the company gets some complaints.
“They’ve been the same since day one, and it’s about the
holes in the bread, but that open-cell structure is actually something we
strive for,” she explains. “There are just those few consumers out there who
continue to say, ‘I tried to butter my bread, and it falls through the hole.’”
Although many retailers prefer private label, especially
when baking off in the in-store bakery, Gaudet notes that ACE Bakery continues
to push its brand as a premium alternative for quality-seeking consumers. In
addition to providing premium products, the company supports the ACE Bakery
brand with merchandising displays.
“We like to show the retailer, if they haven’t adopted it,
the power of off-shelf merchandising,” Gaudet says. “We try to custom-design
units that accommodate an ideal amount of product for their needs and have
off-shelf merchandising so consumers can see the product front and center.”
Moreover, the bakery offers its signature white packaging and sampling programs with its own trained demonstration staff to engage and educate consumers, receive feedback and add a human side to the brand. The company’s charitable programs also build goodwill in the community.
“We support the brand with recipes and point-of-sale
elements to enhance and raise its profile,” Gaudet says. “You create ‘touch
points’ and brand loyalty with consumers. You don’t get that level of consumer
connectivity in the private label space.”
Determining the value proposition of the company’s programs
can be tricky, Roiter says. Because its customer base is so diverse, what
quantifies as “value” changes depending on whether the bakery is serving the
foodservice industry or a supermarket chain.
“For me, it’s making sure that we play a meaningful role in
increasing the bottom line impact for our customer partners,” he says. “Our
team is very flexible and can take the necessary steps to design a program that
works for all parties. Becoming a ‘partner in profits’ is a large part of our
success at the end of the day.”
When it comes to creating great-tasting bread, ACE Bakery
holds the cards that can trump others by focusing on a combination of people,
products, process, profits and passion.
Maybe that’s why the bakery’s slogan is simply, “We love
bread!”
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